Tuesday, April 21, 2009

First visit to London (Part 2)

Still tired from their brief Paris adventure, Ray and Traci got a late start – Ray started the day by running around Hyde Park after stopping at Buckingham palace to find a sign stating “No Guard Changing Today.” He was amused at finding a traffic signal just for horses between Green Park and Hyde Park. The first trip of the day was to the Victoria and Albert Museum - this free museum contains a vast collection of art from around the world. Specialized collections from Asia are found as well as European art, Ancient art and even a Chihuly Chandelier. Highlights include a “cast collection” – back in the days before photography and world travel, museums would make plaster casts of great works of art such as Michelangelo’s David statue – these casts then were shipped to other museums during the 19th century for foreigners to enjoy. The V&A museum has a most impressive collection.
After leaving the V&A museum, Ray and Traci walked to one of England’s most famous landmarks, Harrods. This enormous 1 million square foot store really has “More of Everything.” While bargains were sparse (here is a $25,732 toy car at the prevailing exchange rate), the store exists as a sharp contrast to the US where large department stores are dying, replaced by big box discounters. Harrod’s boasts several eateries, both eat in and take out – Ray purchased some delicious sushi while Traci went to the Indian food counter and got a yummy chicken & rice dish, total cost for both about 10 pounds.
Next stop was the British Museum (also free) – a huge collection of amazing artifacts from all over the world. On the steps of the museum, you feel like you are entering the Roman Civilization – once inside, visitors find a huge atrium covered by a glass room. Within the expansive structure are long corridors with interesting items, “acquired” from civilizations throughout time.
Stop one was at the Rosetta Stone, a stunning stone tablet which 19th century scholars realized was the key to translating Egyptian hieroglyphs. Next, Ray and Traci were intrigued at seeing a room filled with Roman art pilfered from the Parthenon, under the guise of “preservation.” Well, considering the Romans once conquered the land known now as England, perhaps payback is a bitch. Less easily dismissed is the huge collection of Egyptian art, caskets, tools, and jewelry found in the British Museum – clearly the Egyptians must not be pleased with all of the body snatching.
Ray and Traci had time to visit other fascinating exhibits about money thru the ages (when physical money ruled over digitally created “quantative easing”) as well as an amazing collection of time pieces. Seeing working 15th century clocks is quite humbling to inhabitants of the 21th century who are happy just to see machinery work beyond the manufacturer’s warranty. Nearing closing time, Ray and Traci had to pass on other exhibits and instead, headed to nearby Oxford Street. This area hosted many shops, eateries and boasted a ton of people in the late afternoon on a weekday. Ray and Traci hunted for souvenirs in the many shops. Growing both hungry and tried (especially after the long Paris adventure the day before), Ray and Traci walked down Piccacdilly toward their hotel and stopped at the same Japanese restaurant Toku they visited early in the trip – for about 30 pounds they enjoyed a great ramen dinner including shrimp tempura for Ray and yellowtail sushi for Traci. For dessert, Ray had some strawberry ice cream at a nearby shop.
On their last night in London, the travelers decided to take in some British theatre. Ray got two half priced tickets to a comedy paying at the Criterion Theatre in Piccadilly Circus. London is well known for its theatre. In the summer, Shakespeare plays are often performed, sometimes with only natural daylight and no microphones as in the author’s day. Many shows such as Jersey Boys, Mamma Mia and Wicked are found in London as in the US. Ray and Traci saw 39 steps, which was unique in that only 4 actors played hundreds of characters in the show which was about a bored WW2 era Londoner who became involved in a secret plot against England. Ray didn’t follow much of the humor, but appreciated the cultural experience. Shows in general are much cheaper than in New York, and a TKTS half price office works the same way in Piccadilly Circus as it does in Times Square.

Wednesday marked the end of Ray and Traci’s European Adventure. Rain came and went overnight but left brilliant sunshine in the morning – the entire week in Europe had picture perfect tourist weather. Ray started the day by running a few laps around Green Park (next to Hyde Park) and making sure the “No Changing of the Guard Sign” was not shown at Buckingham Palace. Ray and Traci then packed up and before checking out ventured out to Old Bond Street which is a Rodeo Drive of sort for London with very exclusive brands found in boutiques. As expected in a depression, the street was nearly empty. Traci purchased some chocolate boxes at Charbonnel et Walker which was a bit more expensive than Hershey’s finest in the US.
The last stop was at Buckingham Palace where Ray and Traci tried again to see the changing of the guard. This time the event took place, but an incredible mob of people prevented viewing. Travel guides suggest going early and standing on the Victoria Memorial Fountain.
Ray and Traci arrived just about starting time (11:30) and basically heard the band march down with the troops into the place and the mounted soldiers pass the palace but not much else. Fortunately, videos are found on You Tube, and that will have to fill in the details.
Their European adventure ended uneventfully after checking out of the May Fair, hopping a cab to Paddington Station and taking the 20 minute Heathrow Express Train to their British Airway Flight. Ray and Traci left Europe with a much better appreciation of the art and history and a desire to continue their explorations. Ray also wondered what became of his camera, and particularly the flash memory card inside it.

Ray’s Favorites from the European Adventure
1. London Tower (especially the Beefeater guided tour)
2. Musee du Louvre
3. Notre Dame
4. Eiffel Tower

Traci’s Favorites
1. View of Eiffel Tower from Place du Trocadero
2. Parthenon frieze and sculptures at the British Museum
3. River boat tour along the Thames
4. Eating lunch on the steps of St. Paul’s Cathedral
5. Westminster Abbey